Italy: Dolomites AV2 Route Trek
The pale mountains of northern Italy, AKA: The Dolomites. Named for the light color of limestone prevalant there, these are neither the tallest nor the most expansive of mountains. Yet, owing to their unique characteristics, they have a devoted following and almost mythical status. They form some of the steepest limestone walls in the world, riven with wild spires and formations, and are cut by deep, picturesque valleys of verdant green, peppered with small working farms. But it’s not just the terrain that makes this range memorable.
The Dolomites lie on the border of Italy and Austria, and these high passes have been traversed by travelers for millennia. This was also the front line during World War I. To facilitate troop movements thru the dolomites both armies built serpentine routes through the vertiginous heights, which today are known as Via Ferratas (the iron way). These cables aided exposed paths allowing hikers to safely climb mountainsides and peaks usually only accessible to rock climbers.
Trip Highlights
- Explore high altitude trails with wild spires and formations cut by deep, picturesque valleys
- Sleep in back country, rustic alpine mountain huts, many are over 100 years old, and over 8000 ft
- Trek on a climb route with a "via ferrata;" a climbing route that employs steel cables, rungs, or ladders, fixed to the rock
Itinerary
Day 1
Descending the Brenner Pass that divides Italy and Austria, the narrow valley opens up to reveal the medieval city of Bolzano: population 100,000, siting at 1,000ft elevation. Surrounded by vineyards and orchards, the southern edge of the Dolomites rise above the city. Three rivers converge here, and there is a lovely bike path along the river. Today, we'll meet at the hotel to commence what is sure to be an amazing adventure.
Day 2
This morning we will pick up via ferrata gear, then it's on to visit the ice man, called Otzi. He was discovered at a high pass just inside Italy in 1991 due to glacial melting. Housed in a museum near the center of town, the 3000BC mummy is the oldest in Europe and gives an unprecedented window into the Copper Age.
Next, it's on to the Messner museum on the edge of Bolzano in an old castle dedicated to alpine climbing history. Reinhold Messner, the legendary Tirolian mountaineer, grew up just up the valley in Bressanone, and these mountains were his home.
The rest of the day is free to explore and prepare for the trek.
Day 3
An easy first hiking day, all downhill. We will take the bus to the charming mountain town of Ortisei, grab a snack, and ascend 4000’ via a 2 stage gondola. This brings us to the Seceda viewpoint. From here we can look across the Val Gardena to the Alpe di Suisi, the largest alpine meadow in the Alps, the endpoint of our circular route.
Day 4
Today we begin by hiking up a wide alluvial fan and climb our 1st pass. After a lunch stop at the pass we encounter our 1st and easiest via ferrata, before descending to our hut. As we approach the hut we will have incredible views down the dramatic glacier that formed Vallunga Valley with the town of Selva in the distance.
Day 5
Today is our biggest day of the whole trek. Lots of up and down with an exciting via ferrata at the end before topping out on a remote plateau. We begin by circumnavigating the headwall of the Vallunga Valley. Its floor is 2000 feet below us, so views will be spectacular. To our backs we see an undulating landscape that resembles the moon. After a couple of minor passes we descend to the Passo Gardena and lunch. Across from us lies the Sella Gruppo, an island in the sky surrounded by steep ramparts. After crossing the pass we traverse beneath its impressive walls and begin a series of switch-backs to our hut. The rifugio rests beside one of the few lakes in the Dolomites.
Day 6
Today we ascend from a bench on the Sella Gruppo to it's high barren plateau. This is an austere land- scape void of any organic material – light colored porous limestone as far as the eye can see. Soon we encounter our 1st via ferrata, and above us looms the Cima Pisciadu, an optional climb for those with a good head for heights. We continue climbing up to a viewpoint for a rest, then downhill as we near our hut. At this point the route divides: either up and over a hill or traversing it with a via ferrata. Soon we arrive at our hut which lies at the base of the Piz Boe, our objective tomorrow.
Day 7
An interesting day involving 2 lifts and a bus. The morning begins with an optional peak climb including a small via ferrata to the top of Piz Boe, over 10,000’. Unbelievably there is a small rifugio perched atop the summit. Returning to our overnight hut, we gather our backpacks and traverse to the Sass Pordoi cable car, with a small climb just before reaching the station. After the descending via the gondola, we lunch at the Passo Pordoi, and catch a bus (sit close to the front as there are many switchbacks!) to the Passo Sella, where we will bundle into the most interesting lift you have ever experienced. The lift deposits us at the top of the Forcello Sassolungo. From here it is a rocky descent between the massive walls of the Plattkofel and Langkofel to our rustic hut, a favorite of many weary hikers.
Day 8
Today we will traverse part of the base of the Plattkofel. We will drop down to the the edge of Alpe di Suisi, the largest alpine meadow in Europe. After a short hike we arrive at our modern hut with heated floors, located at the base of the Plattkofel. After lunch we have an option to climb the 9700’ Plattkofel, a non-technical out and back. This additional option is +/- 4 hours round trip with approximately 2,000ft elevation gain and loss.
Day 9
Today we traverse a beautiful ridge above the Alpe di Suisi, encountering cows along the way, and other exotic creatures.... like trail runners! After a short, steep climb we arrive at our lunch hut, recently renovated. After lunch we traverse beneath the Cima Terrarossa. Following a short, steep climb we arrive at the Schlern Plateau, from where we catch a glimpse of our castle-like hut in the distance. This hut has the largest dining room you have ever seen, a grand high-ceilinged affair. In the evening or the next morning we can make the short ascent to Monte Pez, and take in the view of Bolzano in the distance.
Day 10
Our last day involves a steep descent to the Alpe di Suisi, followed by a pleasant stroll across its’ verdant green pastures where we reach the cable car station. From here we catch a short bus ride back to Bolzano. Tonight we celebrate in style, reminiscing on the incredible journey, the gorgeous landscape we encountered, the adventures we've had and the bonds we've made.
Day 11
We leave today!