Everest Base Camp Trek Day 4 — Namche to Tengboche
07.04.2018
Day 4 of your trek to Mt. Everest Base Camp is when so much of the amazing scenery and culture begins to reveal itself to you. Not that the previous days were dull or lacked beauty, but today you get above 12,000 feet and deeper into the ancient Buddhist culture of the Khumbu.
Starting in Namche, you climb briefly on the wide path, perhaps retracing some of your steps from the acclimation walk on Day 3, before rounding a corner and finding yourself with a panoramic view up the valley towards Everest, Ama Dablam and other snowy peaks all around.
Perhaps best of all, the trail now becomes “Nepali flat,” meaning it just has small ups and downs that will leave you plenty of energy to enjoy yourself and the views. You’ll also pass a series of Stupas, sacred religious spots adorned with prayer flags. There will be many photos taken.
Typically there is a morning tea break at the impossibly scenic spot of Sanasa. Here, Ama Dablam looms above, the monastery at Tengboche is visible on a ridge across the valley, other peaks rise all around, and the valley leading up to Gokyo comes in from the left. Sitting here in the sun having a tea will be an early highlight of your trek.
(Note: It is just past this tea break, and after you start the descent described below, that the Gokyo Lakes Route diverts off to the left. It rejoins this route at Everest Base Camp, then follows it back to here and on to Lukla. You can read a detailed description of that route starting here or a simple comparison of the two routes.)
After the Gokyo route leaves to the left, you go down through a pine and rhododendron forest to a crossing of the Dudh Khosi, where many people stop for lunch. Be sure to check out the water-driven prayer wheels at this spot. Then you have to reclaim all that elevation, plus some, climbing many dusty switchbacks before suddenly arriving at Tengboche (12,660’).
We say “suddenly” because you will come out of the forest to see a tea house and a mani wall of carved prayer stones. Follow the trail through that wall, and you are looking at the spectacular and previously unseen Tengboche monastery.
There has been a monastery here since 1916, but this is the third building. The first was lost to earthquake In 1934, the second to fire in 1989. Still, it’s a massive complex covered in colorful artwork. If you’re wondering, it is possible to attend services here; simply ask in the office or left you guides check it out for you. A small donation would be appreciated.
Another highlight is reached by following a trail left of the monastery, past a hotel and out to an open area near the end of the ridge. In addition to having nice views down the valley and back to the monastery, this spot also hosts memorial chortens to people who died on Mount Everest. Back in the trees, see if you can find the one related to the 1963 American Expedition.
Oh, and there’s a pretty good bakery just down the hill below the monastery! You might want some carbs for the next day, Day 5, when you’ll be climbing once again to Dingboche.